When I started working on Dad’s Eye View, 52 adventures seemed like a daunting goal; by the end, though, I found that a lot of great adventures had to be squeezed out. One of the adventures that didn’t make it in was the Minnesota Irish Fair, going on this weekend on Harriet Island near downtown St. Paul. Here’s the essay that I wrote for that event; note that it hasn’t been treated to the great editing that MHS Press applied to the rest of the book–pick up a copy or download the app for the good stuff!

We went to the Irish Fair for the music, and ended up getting a refresher course in Gaelic at the hurling match.

Hurling is a fast-paced team sport that looks a little like lacrosse, field hockey, and hand-to-hand combat. Two teams face of with cupped sticks (called hurleys or camáin) with which they move a hard leather ball called a sliotar down the field. By move, I mean hurl with great force and deadly accuracy. Or mostly accuracy: during the match we watched, it wasn’t too uncommon for the ball to go whizzing toward the crowd, though I didn’t see any spectators actually mowed down by it. The game was called by a representative of the Gaelic Athletic Association in a hurried mix of English and Irish, so I was able to do some quick (though perhaps inaccurate) translations of the score for the boys while they watched the players rushing up and down the field.

When Jack and Peter were very little, my small collection of Irish-language children’s books sometimes made it into the mix of bedtime stories. They especially liked “Brán agus an Noillag,” a translation of the ubiquitous Spot the puppy books (this was the Christmas edition), and “Bhí faithigh ann uair” (“There Were Giants Then”), about a little girl growing up in an extended family. I would read it in Irish, translating as I went, and they would laugh at the funny sounds I had to make. The Irish, which I learned in the basement of a St. Paul bar from the late Sean T. Kelly, didn’t stick with them, but they seemed to enjoy the glimpse into a foreign language.

An interest in Irish music did stick, though, and the Irish Fair is one of the best places in the Twin Cities to take in a lot of tunes. We saw touring bands at the main stage, and more intimate concerts of fiddle, uillean pipes, harp, and accordion. The fair also features story tellers, craft demonstrations, lots of food, and all the Irish-themed bric-a-brac you could ever want. All in all, a great place for “craic” (Irish for “fun”) whatever your Irish connection.

The Irish Gazette, St. Paul’s Irish monthly, mentions the book in the current issue:

Michael Hartford, Gaelic speaker, has penned a book that is making him very popular with parents of young children that live or visit the Twin Cities. “Dad’s Eye View,” which is published by The Minnesota Historical Society Press, has been a big hit with book buyers. In the book Hartford describes 52 of his family’s favorite Twin Cities spots — one for each week of the year. To secure a copy go to your favorite book store or to www.mhspress.org.

I am indeed a (passable) Gaelic speaker–I can successfully discuss the weather, order a beer, and recite poetry in Irish, which are useful skills in only a few places. (One of which is the Irish Fair on Harriet Island, coming up in a couple weeks–don’t miss it!) The book is, of course, entirely in English.

If you’re interested in the Irish (and Scots and Welsh) goings-on around the Twin Cities and Midwest, you should pick up your copy of the Gazette, available at just about anyplace with an Irish angle (Irish on Grand, local pubs, and so on). It’s packed with news from Ireland as well, essays on music and dance, and lessons in Irish.

Full disclosure: Jim Brooks, the publisher of the Irish Gazette, is an in-law of mine in some convoluted and typically St. Paul Irish manner; I long ago gave up on trying to understand how exactly I’m related by marriage to half the St. Paul Irish population, and simply accept that they’re all cousins of some sort.

Sl´inte!

Public St. Patrick’s Day celebrations can be a dicey affair with kids in tow: big crowds, a paucity of restroom facilities, and adults not always on their best behavior. But there are plenty of fun ways to partake of the wearin’ o’ the green with the wee’uns, and downtown St. Paul is the place to do it.

The big event, of course, is the St. Patrick’s Day Parade, sponsored for the last 44 years by the St. Patrick’s Association. The parade goes up 4th Street, from Sibley to Rice Park, and steps off at noonish (it’s an Irish event, and the Irish are not a people prone to precise punctuality, so expect a little bit of a delay). I’ve found that the best place to watch it is from the steps of the St. Paul Central Library, or from Rice Park, where you’ll find vendors selling a wide array of St. Pat’s paraphernalia. Further down the hill things are a bit more crowded and chaotic; by the time the parade reaches the library, it’s sorted itself out. The pipers and brass bands are always a hit with kids.

On the other side of Rice Park, in the Landmark Center, the Irish Music and Dance Association is running their big event full of music, dance, and activities. Kids who are interested in music might especially enjoy the 2:00 PM performance by students from the Center for Irish Music; I’ve seen them perform at a few events, and they’re really great. If your kids are interested in pursuing jigs and reels and airs a little further, you can get information there about the classes and camps that the center offers.

There’s also a special children’s stage with music geared to the younger set, and craft activities (in years past the craft room has been upstairs, which is a great opportunity to check out the haunted elevator, supposedly operated by a ghostly bellhop). Food is available, too, and not just corned beef and cabbage: there are kid friendly sandwiches and snacks for sale. Tickets $6 for adults, $4 for kids 5-12, and festivities run from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM.

Sláinte, a chairde!

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